Video Shooting Techniques, Simplified

Do you have a hankering to shoot an educational film to post in your online course or show to your class? It might be something as simple as creating a video depiction of a clinical procedure in nursing, or as basic as getting a video archive of a speaker. You can go from simple to complex, but it's helpful to know how to get the best of what you have. That's what this blog entry is all about.

Fundamental to any type of video production goal is the process of getting good video. It doesn’t matter what type of video camcorder you are using, professional, consumer, or “prosumer.” I don’t care if you are operating a Panasonic P2 digital hard drive camcorder, or a “flipcam”, the principles of shooting good video, suitable for editing, are the same. In this post I’m going to strive to break down the steps for shooting good video into simple, understandable terms.

You need at least the following:

* A camcorder
* A tripod
* Adequate sound recording capability.
* Adequate lighting
* Something you want to “show”.

I emphasize the word “show” because videography is all about showing. Get a good idea of what you want to show, and why you want to show it, and that defines what you are going to shoot. Period, end of story. It really can be that simple.

For this discussion, I will assume that you are operating the equivalent of a Sony Handycam camcorder, with a side-mounted, flip-to-open viewfinder, and a tripod. Let’s proceed with a discussion of the subject to be shot, shooting techniques, and preparing to edit.

Basic Shots

For any given video production, there are certain types of shots you want to be sure you capture, or at least consider capturing, with the camcorder. For every shot, the best case scenario involves a camera on a tripod. The closer the shot, the more important the tripod becomes to maintain a steady shot and avoid shakiness.
The Establishing Shot.

This is a shot where the camcorder is capturing the entire scene or venue of the main subject being shot. It’s a wide shot of the location, in other words. The abbreviation for an establish shot is ES. It could also be WS for “wide shot”

The Full Shot.

This is a shot of the subject you are shooting, completely filling the frame. A full-shot could be described as a head-to-toe shot of an individual. In shooting for widescreen display, the full shot could consist of a head-to-knee shot. This would be a knee-shot. The abbreviation is FS.
The Medium Shot

The Medium Shot or its abbreviation, MS, is mainly a shot from the waist-up.

The Close-Up

This is perhaps the most important of the repertoire of shots you will use, because it will pick out details that must be seen (or “shown”) to convey understandable meaning to the viewer. For people shots, the close-up is from the shoulder-up. For smaller objects, the close-up is best defined as close enough to show, unmistakably, what needs to be shown. It’s abbreviation is CU.

Note for post-production purposes (i.e., “editing”): The close-up is virtually never a stand-alone type of shot. It needs the support of the previously mentioned shots, the establishing shot, ES, and the Full Shot, FS, to show a meaningful visual context to the viewer.
The Tight Close-up.

For people shots, this is a shot of the face, cut off at perhaps the hairline at the top of the frame, and the chin at the bottom of the frame. It’s effect is intended to be dramatic. Use TCU for the abbreviation.

The Extreme Close-up.

Pretty obvious what this is: the XCU. Use this shot to pick out minute details that are important: perhaps an internal organ of a frog being dissected, a scrap of wording of a text, a component of a computer.

In shooting your subject, the progression is typically from getting the ES or WS first, and then moving in closer to get the progression of shots described above. But don’t be locked in to that order of progression. Be variable depending on the needs of the shoot. The important thing to keep in mind is to strive to get the whole repertoire, or as much as you need to meet the goals of your shoot.

The Subject

The subject of the video shoot is of foremost interest to the question of what do you want to show and why. What is your goal for the video you’re shooting? The answer to that question defines how you approach shooting the subject. I would like to distinguish between two types of subjects: Stationary, and Moving.
Stationary Subjects

A good example of a relatively stationary subject is the student presenter, or instructor, the one who is giving a speech to the class in a traditional classroom setting. There may or may not be some movement, but for the most part the student is at the podium, delivering a speech. As in all shooting instances, you get best results by using a tripod, and that is what is assumed throughout this post.
Zooms

Customary to virtually every one-camera shooting situation is to start out with a wide shot of the subject you are shooting. Then you would want to zoom in until you fill the frame with the best composition of the subject. If the subject is a speaker, a MS (Medium Shot) from the waist or midriff up is probably a good choice. Zooming, like any camera movement, is best accomplished gradually. In one-camera shoots, pretend your camera is “live” on-the-air. You wouldn’t expect to see quick, harsh movements of the camera, so handle your shooting in the same manner.
Pans and Tilts.

As the subject moves, and/or as you zoom in on your subject, you will find it necessary to move the camera from side-to-side (pan), or up and down (tilt). Look for the pan and tilt braking mechanisms on your tripod, and before the shoot starts, play with these until you become comfortable with their use.

Warning: Don’t overdo the zoom, pan, or tilt. If you do this to excess, especially every other second or so as you try to capture everything all at once, you’ll be capturing nothing and ruining your shot. Rapid zooming, panning and tilting of your camera every couple of seconds is sometimes known as “spray painting” and it never, never, never works. If the subject you are shooting does not appear steady in the frame for at least 5-7 full seconds, you will be very frustrated when you see the result and challenged if/when you go to edit.

Warning II: Be wary of having too much “headroom“. Amateurs make the typical mistake of leaving too much empty air or space between the top of the person’s head and the top frame of the video. This may because the camera operator is trying to compensate for all of the displays of time, battery power, and whatnot that are seen in the viewfinder. Just ignore all those displays or turn them off. Balance the shot so it looks balanced from top to bottom.

Tip: For close-ups of people, especially tight close-ups, put the tip of the subject’s nose in the center of the window; a sure-shot balancing trick that I learned from a television news director.
Special Topic: The “chalk-and-talk”

If you are shooting a lecturer who uses the chalk/whiteboard, you might find it helpful to work out in advance a few boundaries. Make a “tic” mark in the four corners that define the video frame on the chalk/whiteboard itself. The lecturer should stay within the imaginary rectangle formed by these tic marks. At times you will need to zoom in on a particular math solution or feature of a graph or chart. That’s fine. Follow the advice that’s been given previously in this post.

Moving Subjects

You may be covering a sports event, or shooting an earth-moving machine in action. Maybe it’s a training film for backhoe operators. Again, use a tripod, for best results. But at times you may need to dismount the camcorder from the tripod and move quickly to capture video by hand.

First things first: The chief principle in shooting any action shot is to keep shooting until the action stops. During your shoot, keep the subject in the frame, and lead the motion of the subject with the side of the frame that’s in the direction of the movement. This will give the shot an appropriate feeling of forward momentum and balance.

For example, you’re shooting a cross-country athlete who is about to run past your position. S/he is running from left-to-right. Capture the runner as s/he comes into the left side of the frame. Using the pan, stay with him/her. As s/he runs, toward the right side of the frame, you will want to keep your subject left of center in the frame, so that there is “room” in front of the runner. Keep following the runner with the camera. After s/he has run past your position, let him/her run out of the frame at right. Creating a sense of “lead room” in this manner gives it forward moving momentum and looks good.

Sometimes, just keep your camera still as the action comes in from one side of the frame (as in a road race) and exits the other side of the frame.

The best case scenario is to start capturing the action with your camera in a still position, unmoving, as you’re rolling, follow the movement of the action, and then end your shot with your camera in a still position.

That’s not always possible, of course, but do the best you can.

Try to, at least, end your shot with the camera in a still position– this will help with editing at a later time.

The Action Line

For shooting action, it is important to stay on “one side of the line”. Here is what I mean by that: Imagine you’re watching a basketball game from one side of the court. Now, draw an imaginary line from one basket to the other. It will be a horizontal line. Stay on one side of that imaginary line for every sequence of actions that you shoot.

For one-camera shoots, you may want to get multiple angles of the action you are shooting. If you are going to edit your video for later distribution or posting to YouTube, you are going to have to get multiple angles. Look to that horizontal line again as representing 180 degrees. Now, imagine that line represents half a pie. You’re on the round side of that half-pie. Follow so far?

Now, slice that pie into slices every 30 degrees. You should have six slices of pie. When you change the position of your camera to get different angles of what you shoot, you must position your camera at least 30 degrees away from the previous angle. (Thompson, Bowen, 2009).

This rule is also applicable to shooting stationary subjects, when you want to get multiple angles.

Handheld shots

Small mini-DV camcorders and hard-drive or DVD consumer camcorders allow for amazing creativity. With one hand, and some creative wrist action, you can capture some dramatic camera angles of the subject you’re shooting. I have only one rule for you: Use the widest possible angle; zoom out all the way, when you shoot hand-held shots. And get as close as possible to your subject without being obtrusive.
Cutaways

What is a “cutaway”? It’s only one of the most important things you shoot with your video camera if you plan to edit the video later. The simplest example I can give to define a cutaway is to describe a scenario as follows.

You are shooting a presenter at a major speaking event. Excerpts of this speech will be used in a 4-5 minute video that may be used in class, or uploaded to YouTube. The presenter said a few good things all through the 20-minute speech, but there’s a clip (or “soundbite”) at the 2 minute mark you want to use, again at the 11 minute mark, and again at the 18 minute mark, hypothetically.

If you edit these cuts of the speaker in your video, back-to-back-to-back, you will annoy the viewer. Why, because, like a karate chop, the visual of the speaker talking about subtopic A suddenly cuts abruptly to subtopic B. And it will look bad. It’s called a “jumpcut” and it’s almost never a good thing.

So, how do you cover that jumpcut? You insert a cutaway. During your shoot, at times you swing the camera around and get a good stable, 5-7 second shot of the audience, listening to the speaker. That shot is the cutaway.

We’ll talk about video editing another time, but for now, just know that when you have on the editing timeline the two or three shots of the speaker talking, and you insert over those shots the cutaway of the audience watching or applauding, you’ve created a smooth-looking and pleasing result. The audio of the speaker can continue during the few seconds that the inserted cutaway is playing on the timeline.

A cutaway is a shot of something that fits within the overall context of the goal of your video but is not a shot of the primary subject being shot. There are numerous types of cutaways. If you’re shooting a presentation on how to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, and you’ve got a Medium Shot (MS) of the presenter demonstrating the technique, the cutaway would be a tight close-up of the spreading of the peanut butter and jelly on the bread. Guess what? That means you shoot it twice. Once to get the primary instruction by the presenter (the MS), and the second time a close-up of the action. You will marry these shots together in the editing room so it looks like the action is seamless from start to finish.

Some say that you can never get enough good cutaways. I agree. But let’s be realistic. You may have only so much tape, or drive space, or time left on your battery. Be thorough in selecting your cutaways to shoot, but be selective in the cutaways you will shoot thoroughly. There is a point in time where you will feel that you’ve got enough cutaways. If you understand why you are shooting the video and keep its goal in mind, you’ll know when that point comes.

Roam with your camera while you’re shooting the event. Set it up at angles equal to or greater than 30 degrees from other angles. Shoot a variety of shots. Build a portfolio of shots that you can bring to the editing room.

You will appreciate the results, and so will the person who is editing the work (if it isn’t you).

Finally, the 10-second rule.

As I’ve stated earlier, each shot must be at least 5-7 seconds long to be usable. But in reality, you’ll be shooting 10 seconds worth of video for each shot whenever possible. This requires patience and willingness on your part. But that extra length of time will benefit the video post-production and editing process.

For each shot you take, make sure your camera is steady, and count 10 seconds after you hit “record”. One thousand one; one thousand two; one thousand three… and so on, all the way to one thousand ten. Now stop recording.

It’s that simple.